Knitted Fabric

Intro to Technical Design for Manufacturing and Sourcing

Knitted Fabrics

By Eileen Karp©2005

Characteristics:

Ability to stretch or to change their dimensions through stretch and recover to their original shape after being stretched; this property is called “memory”.

 Think about instances where memory is particularly important (think swimsuits, activewear, pantyhose, knitted pants)

What causes knits to stretch?

Interlocking loops of yarn create the knit stitch formation on knitting machines.

Common knit types are:

• Flat or single knit jersey:

o

o Lightweight, curl (think J. Crew roll edge sweater), can distort

o One set of needles to knit across the fabric to create horizontal stretch

 Think Tee shirts

• Weft/ purl/ rib/ double knits:

o

o More stable, heavier, more stretch (think cotton cashmere)

o Two sets of needles knit across the fabric to create horizontal stretch

 Think rib sweaters and cuffs on sweatshirts

• Tricot/ raschel knits:

o

o Lightweight, some stretch, often slinky yarns (think lingerie)

o Many loops knitting in a lengthwise direction

 Think sheers or shiny lightweight fabric or hand crochet look

How to preserve stretch when sewing?

• Special ballpoint needles slip between the loops instead of puncturing the yarn and creating holes that cause knits to run

• Reinforce shoulder seams and areas where much tension and stretch

• Minimum neck stretched measurement must fit over head (or hands, feet)

• Specific sewing machines used to create stretch in stitches to be compatible with garment stretch

How do knits affect our lives?

Knits are comfortable, retain their shape, easy care, and travel well without wrinkling. Woven fabrics with the addition of spandex now try to imitate knits. Knitted garments are an integral part of our lives.